Vince could not host a presentation this season due to the coronavirus pandemic. In these extenuating circumstances, Vogue Runway has made an exception to its policy and is writing about this collection via photos and remote interviews.
Caroline Belhumeur and her Vince team started working on Vince’s resort 2021 collection back in November, long before Merriam-Webster was adding words like “PPE” and “coronavirus” to the dictionary. But their initial concept turned out to be almost prophetic: Belhumeur said they’d been thinking about entertaining at home, something we’ll be doing a lot of this holiday season. Her moodboard was pinned with Lalique perfume bottles, louche ’80s decor, and Edward Steichen’s silver gelatin photographs of women in the ’20s and ’30s in bias-cut slips, caftans, and subtle jewelry. The effect was of a more comfortable, low-key kind of indulgence: “There’s a simplicity to it, but also this richness,” Belhumeur said on a Zoom call from Los Angeles. “We were thinking about that moment you’re getting ready for your guests, or maybe you’re greeting them at the door, but you’re barefoot.”
If a ball gown or sequins felt like “too much” for at-home entertaining in 2019, they’ll feel categorically wrong this year. Of course, most women probably haven’t given much thought to their holiday wardrobes yet; the past few months have shown us that everything can change in a day, and by Christmas, we may be living through the second “wave” of the virus. Or maybe we won’t. One thing we know for sure is that we’ll be fortunate to spend any time at all with family and friends—and we might want to dress in a way that’s celebratory, but not, you know, ridiculous. Vince’s cowl-neck satin dresses and silky suits might fit the bill, channeling the relaxed luxury of Steichen’s photographs; in the lookbook, they’re shown in a real house, often without shoes.