Speaking from Odessa, Ukraine, alongside her son Ivan, 13, Natasha Zinko explained that this men’s and women’s spring 2021 collection was shot partially in a poppy field 40 minutes outside the city and partially in the nightclub visible in the background of our Zoom call. It’s an impressive feat to pull together a collection at all right now, and here it was achieved by working across London and Zinko’s home city. To add another layer of transnational exchange, all the new fabrics came from Italy and the offering in which they are incorporated was inspired by Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas.
According to Ivan, who worked hand-in-hand with his mother on this collection, the main theme they were exploring here was “society’s influence on people and crowd mentality and the effects of drugs.” To be clear, the Zinko attitude to both guns and drugs is heartily negative. They were also, via the literary starting point, exploring ’70s Americana infused with plenty of Zinko kick. Patchwork flared pants and raw denim jeans made flared by insertions of patch were all fabricated from deadstock from past seasons, as were many other pieces you can see here. Attractive mohair western shirts with Stars and Stripes patching and flannel shirts patched with Zinko’s team’s vision of Thompson’s Chevy, the Great Red Shark, were notable elements in the menswear offer, alongside a pinstripe suit cut wide and boxy-shouldered that Zinko said was unisex.