This Kiton womenswear collection suggested progression at a house whose fabrication is impeccable but whose image of itself has long failed to do that justice. As well as improved styling, the collection also displayed broader range: case in point was look 24’s elevated cashmere jersey two-piece, which suggested that even if sweatpants are forever, forever might not be such a purgatory after all.
Another hint of expansion was look 14’s set of cardigan/jacket/shacket loungecoats—call them what you will, wear them as you will—teamed with pants in what Maria Giovanna Paone said was “millionaire’s cashmere.” A side-vented white and green paneled shirt in scrumptious 14 micron wool teamed with a silk satin shirt and handsome wide jeans was another go-er.
Absolutely as per usual, this collection was overflowing with lustrous double faced outerwear, sometimes reversible, and pieces in beautifully tailored traditionally patterned fabrics and leathers. And yet along with a cute ski-capsule not in the lookbook, it was the more democratically designed pieces—even if they were cut in millionaire’s cashmere—that were most interesting at Kiton today. Spring 2019 proved to be a false dawn, but all the gazillionaires hankering for a fresh source of contemporary, unpretentious and realistic daily pieces—a sort of Uniqlo for the 1 per cent—will be hoping that Fall 2021 isn’t. Whether through design, styling or casting, this was a Kiton collection that reflected its wider world much more accurately, and hence more attractively, than of late.