Comfort certainly isn’t the sexiest word, especially for a designer like Peter Dundas, whose label is a standard-bearer for unabashed glamour. But even he has had to inject practicality and realness into his collections, without giving up on the alluring appeal he favors.
For Fall, Dundas played on contrasts, walking the fine line between ease and voluptuousness, versatility and provocation. He addressed the need for coziness his own way, layering greatcoats over skimpy draped minidresses, or roll-neck sweaters under sensuous fluid numbers. As an alternative, tailoring was offered in sharp velvet pantsuits and slender dusters: Dundas cut his sartorial teeth chez Jean Paul Gaultier, a master tailor if ever there was one, so he could cut a mean blazer blindfolded.
Dundas’s idea of comfort is adding stretch to fabrics—which obviously makes shapes body-hugging—and contouring them the way he likes. When he says ‘T-shirt dress’, do not imagine a simple, unassuming square-cut or polo-necked kind of thing; his version is a long piece of smooth stretchy jersey cut into a form-fitting number with a see-through animalier panel across the waist.
The moment will certainly come when circumstances open up and we’ll all be ready for a good party and fun times. Then Dundas will be our ally. The swinging fringed tops and miniskirts; the ultra-short draped frocks in disco ball jersey (as he calls it); the feathered cardigan dresses worn with lacy hosiery (recently launched) will have us shimmering and shimmying on the dance floor. “More extroverted times will surely come, more celebratory of the body and of physicality,” said the designer. Sexy as the new normal? If that happens, Dundas will certainly be in a very good place.